At 9pm it’s still 29˚ in Sori and there’s something going on everywhere. Even in tucked away corners there’s music and chatter over the constant peal of bells from the church of Santa Margherita. I remember the start of the Madonna’s procession from the 1980s - first a huge crucifix and then a statue of Mary balanced on long poles
would set off to be paraded around the town,carried by the crusty, weathered cast of Pirates of the Caribbean. Sweating and shouting and jolts and gasps. Whispers of ‘Oh Dio!’ then applause and the Rosary and singing. And then repeat, all around town.
But there have been changes too; today everyone’s a little more manicured and it’s not flickering candles but a sea of glowing smart phones that greets the Madonna as she’s hauled out for her annual constitutional.
The Priest and the Mayor are there, straight out of ‘Don Camillo,’and as the Madonna sets off, she seems to be gliding through the streets. With the help of the two lead Carabinieri, the crowd parts to let the procession through, and I realise. They’ve put her on wheels! Walking just behind the Madonnamobile I watch her float above the locals, tourists, teenagers, street stalls, bars and restaurants. Not quite the opening to ‘La Dolce Vita,’ with the statue of Christ suspended from a helicopter, flying over Rome, but pretty close.
As we walk around the town some of the faithful begin to peel off to eat at the community kitchens set up in each of Sori’s quarters. By the time we’re reading the handwritten menu in ‘Forlandoli’ it’s clear the Madonna is tempting us. But she must want us to be happy, otherwise why show us all this incredible food? One last Hail Mary and as we recpectfully dash to join the queue for the Cassa, I promise the Madonna that even though I might eat all the primi I can I will defintely, defintely skip gelato just for tonight, Amen. Here’s what we ate.
The freshest made Ravioli ‘al Tuccu’ Genovese. These turned out to be a summer version and less heavy on the filling (normally there’s meat including offal, cheeses and greens, like borage), in a sauce (the ‘tuccu’) that tasted a lot like an incredible ragù, but with the addition of pine nuts, served with the meat ‘pulled.’ Below, the Ravioli in Salsa di Noce were just as fantastic, the filling being heavier on the greens than the Tuccu. I’ll be including versions of both of these in the forthcoming Pasta & Magic Tomato and Pesto Sauces books.
Pasta & Magic: Oil Sauces is available to buy now at: www.pastaandmagic.com